Traction light and jerking or hard shifting

nickb2

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Ok, just for laughs, A way long time ago, had a car in the shop, hyundai POS. Took me 3 hrs to find sometime I should have done sooner.

1st thing I didnt do, was read work order right. Dies in reverse.

2 nd,, forgot to wiggle test.

This korean job would die only in reverse, everything quit. Found by wiggle testing. Main engine relay was on firewal in this year vintage korean thing, when engine put into reverse, a b+ pin would back out just enough so cut relay.

So start wiggling.

 

nickb2

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Have some one hold brake and goose in reverse, wiggle main engine and tranny harnesses. Sometimes, it just a bad connection when a certain auto trans circuit is alive in REVERSE. Hint

:D
:giveup:
 

Boomer

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Hey Nick, thanks, my friend. I will do that when I get a chance to work on it again. Gremlins are frustrating. Sometimes you can actually back up without dying but, you kinda have to feather the gas like you are saying. Don't know if that helps or not.
 

Boomer

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I went over and picked up the car today. 28 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Started right up and drove with no problem. Forward and reverse. I didn't have very far to go but, no CEL or service traction message. Shut it off, restarted, drove fine again. Very short test but, it shows how this problem is intermittent. Would a bad Cam or Crank position sensor act like this? Went ahead and fixed the aforementioned coolant leak. The tee was brittle and broke in pieces just pulling a hose off of it. I hate not knowing what a problem is. I will work on it again on Monday. Start wiggle testing again, I imagine. Probably won't have a helper so I can't check it in reverse. There was a time earlier though when only reverse was ok and drive made it die so...

I now have a fuel pressure test kit and a noid light. I also have a spark checker that you hold on the wire. Just like this one.? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...t4j_ub7nGIeuZ4EtODxoC9KUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

nickb2

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Right on boomer, looks like you are buying some tool-age, great stuff, keep posting back. Yeah gremlins suck.

I have plenty of anecdotes of those.

At work, we have a mark something pick up, some fancy ford job made. It slips only in reverse, again, intermittent. Hot or cold.

Sadly, I did not get involved, and my good buddy coworker stephane is now pulling the tranny out to get rebuilt. Personnnaly, I would not have pulled that tranny until I had proof of reverse band not applying etc. anyway, just saying, yes, gremlins suck.

Anyway, cool to see you posting back and trying stuff. Show guts and commitment.

Since it is sunday morning, I need a song.

 

Boomer

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Ok, I have an update. The car as I said in the last post was running fine. I started doing the wiggle test. I wiggled the two big engine engine grounds. G105 below the coolant reservoir area (actually a tad forward of it but that's how it's described in the sheet nickb2 provided) The other one is even more towards the front. Those are the two I previously re-did. No problems. Car kept running fine. I decided to go into the area that shop previously repaired. (MAF Connector) I was able to kill the engine 3 different times. I removed the tape he had put on to see if any of the connections were subpar. Didn't see anything loose.

I did find that it seems to die when I wiggle the wires going into the connector next to the MAF wires. I'm not sure what those go to. It disappears under the upper engine plenum. splits and a small loom goes down behind the power steering reservoir area the larger part goes toward the drivers side front wheel. (I'm sure you guys know, the engine is sideways in this car) It has me wondering if maybe it's something inside the connector? I should pull it apart. It's late when I get home from work so I didn't get into trying that tonight. Hopefully soon. What do you guys think? If anyone knows the pinout for that connector to better understand why the engine is dying, it would be much appreciated. I'm including pics with the wiring taped as it came from the shop and then the tape off.

Happy Thanksgiving to all of you. (I guess that's a little late for you in Canada nickb2, my apologies)
 

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Boomer

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Ok, today I pulled that connector apart looking to see if anything was loose. I did not see anything. I used contact cleaner and cleaned the contacts but, it didn't help. Surely one of you guys has experienced something similar. Could it be that it's just a little loose inside where I can't see it? I'm sure it's possible but, how likely is that?

Do I need to buy new connectors and rewire the whole thing to do a proper repair? That connector probably isn't even available anymore.
 

billr

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I am suspicious of those splices. The only way to check would be to strip off the insulation on each one for thorough visual inspection and a pull test
 

nickb2

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Ok, I am goinjg to second what bill and grc wrote, that doesnt look good. I also see a butted black wire, wonder if that maybe is a ground that may need attention. I saw that on pic #2.
 

nickb2

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Could it be that it's just a little loose inside where I can't see it? I'm sure it's possible but, how likely is that?
very likely, that is a double splice job, done in a hurry, you can see the burn marks of a bic lighter, not a pro job, but focus on why that black wire is butted, that may be an essential ground.
 

nickb2

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Hint, when I do wiring, I use a weller pro, heat shrink, and my trusty wagner heat gun. looks good, but when I used butt connectors back in the day, always a come back, time and oxidation etc.

When I solder, use lead 60 40.


I also noted in the double splice, no respect for wire coding color, I would scrap that and do over, as you have said. If you need wiring to do that, just ask, we us will provide that. Again, boomer, you rock. Wish we could meet sometime,

In the mean time, just ask.

take care.


Btw, if your a tv show fan, check out the new sylvestor stalone series, called tulsa king. Very entertaining and funny.
 

nickb2

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That connector probably isn't even available anymore.
you would be very surprised, gm is actually very good at selling connectors already to go, all white wire, much like I see in those pics, somebody just did not have any respect for the long term and just butt connected, never a good idea if on bus can line wires.

good for trailer shyte and stuff, but not when resistance is an issue, need to solder clean copper. wink nod etc.
 

Boomer

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That small harness may be the crank sensor. I'd look at that real close.
That small one is the one I firmly believe causing the problem. I say that because I held the larger one still while wiggling the smaller one with the other hand and I can make the engine die. Seems like if I push them into that connector, things are fine. My idea is to maybe try and isolate each wire by giving it a little tug away from the connector and see if I can find the one making it die. If it comes down to it, I guess I can depin the connector.
 
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