Wheel will not rotate after replacing CV axle

GratisShark

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MAKE: Hyundai
MODEL: Sonata Base
YEAR: 2004
MILES: 125K
ENGINE
: 2.4L Inline 4 cylinder
DESCRIBE ISSUE....
I replaced the passenger side CV axle on my 2004 Base Sonata with Manual Transmission. At the same time, I replaced the following parts with New ones (not refurbished):
  • Lower Control Arm
  • Lower Ball Joint
  • Stabilizer (Drop) Link
  • Tie Rod End
The steering is perfect (fully turns left and right without issues). The problem is that the wheel will not rotate (turn forward or backward). I torqued everything to the manufacturer stated specs with the exception of the main (spindle) axle nut. On that one I had to guess because my torque wrench tops out at 150 ft/lbs. Did I overtighten this part? If so, could I have damaged the wheel bearing even though I haven't driven it? Should I try backing out the axle nut just a bit and driving it? Could the brakes be locked from having it out for a period of time?

**UPDATE**
I loosened the axle nut after removing the cotter pin but it had no effect. I also crawled underneath and checked if the CV axle had come out of the gear box but it seems solidly installed. I also checked the brake and it is not locked up.

If anybody has suggestions, I could really use your help. My daughter's car is out of commission so I really need to get this one back on the road.

Thank you!
 

billr

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I lured this OP over from another forum, let's help catch this one!
 

GratisShark

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Thank you for offering this site Bill! With 2 cars out of commission, we are in dire straits right now so any help would be welcome by our entire family!
 

Mobile Dan

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Is the transmission in neutral? Let's say your wheel was a clockface and the valve stem was at straight-up noon. How far will the valve stem move? 3 hours? 1 hour? 1 minute? Just the tiniest little bit? Not even a tiny bit?
 

GratisShark

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I have an update. I can turn the wheel manually now but it will not engage when you try to power it with the engine. I suspect that the CV axle is not properly seated into the gearbox but from a visual inspection, it sure looks to be all the way in. My suspicion is based strictly on the symptom I'm experiencing but it could be something else. I would like to confirm that the axle is fully engaging the transmission without disassembling the entire suspension again if at all possible. What I can't understand is why it's not making any noise at all. Since it's a manual transmission, I put it into gear with the wheels up in the air and just barely let out the clutch and the driver side wheel does rotate. I would assume that if the shaft was only partially seated, there would be some grinding perhaps but I get nothing. Again, I'm no expert on front-wheel-drive but shouldn't the other wheel rotate in the opposite direction when you turn one by hand? This is not happening either so I'm pretty frustrated with it right now. Any thoughts guys?
 

billr

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Are both drive wheels acting the same, neither will turn?

Edit: OK, just saw your most recent reply. Still, do both wheels act the same? Yeah, if the engine isn't running, and the trans is in gear, turning one wheel should turn the other the opposite direction.
 

GratisShark

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No they do not act the same nor do they "feel" the same. Even though I can turn the one on the passenger side, it is not as smooth as the drivers. If the cv axle was not fully seated into the gearbox, what would be the sypmtoms? I don't want to get tunnel vision but unless I've damaged the wheel bearing, I keep coming back to that as the most likely culprit. The problem is that since it looks like it's all the way in, I would expect some grinding on the spindle (I'm happy it's not) but I hear none.
 

jd

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I've changed out a few (probably 10 or so total) CV assemblies. Axles, Drive Axles, Half Shafts, whatever you want to call them. Only one vehicle that I've worked on (Subaru) retained the transaxle end of the CV assembly with a roll pin. The others (Buick, Toyota) had a spring clip at the transaxle end of the assembly. If Hyundai uses clips, you should have had to "pop" the old assemblies loose to have them come out. Did you? If you had to pop them out, you would have had to pop them back in. If you did NOT, the CV assembly's splines are not fully engaged to the transaxle's splines, if at all. Torquing the 30-some-MM nut on the outboard end won't affect the fit inboard at the transaxle.

'Spose I should ask: Are you sure you have the correct replacement assembly?

See if you can tell if the offending assembly is properly seated. You've done a lot of good work here. Stay with us. You'll get it.
 

billr

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This is the same old axle assembly isn't it; you just removed it for the suspension work? My guess is same as above, you need to shove it in some more, even though it looks like it is in enough. You may have to rap on the end of the axle hard, like using a wood 4 x 4 on end as a "battering ram". Also agree, that axle nut should have nothing to do with this problem.
 

Mobile Dan

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Is that a "one piece" shaft or a "two piece" shaft? Two-piece has a support bearing at rear of engine block. Different sellers picture it both ways.
 

GratisShark

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No Bill, you were right the first time...it is a new axle...I probably confused you with all the details about other repairs. I'm including two images showing the actual part which I inspected and compared with the one I removed before installing it. One image shows the end that mounts into the transaxle/gearbox. It has what Hyundai refers to as a "circlip" and you have to ensure that the open end is facing down when you slide it in. Personally, I heard no noticable "click" when I installed it but the transaxle case is pretty thick and the clip is pretty far in when it reaches it's destination, so I don't think thats too telling. You are supposed to try to remove it to ensure that it's properly seated, which I did without trying to rip the thing out. I also hope that this answers Dan's question because I didn't see a support bearing between the wheel hub and the transaxle but since I'm questioning everything I've done, I will have another look underneath today. Please let me know if you can see the images and if they are of any use to you and thanks so much for your help guys!




By the way, what is the correct way to "slam the thing home" if it's not fully seated? Can I use a small block of wood to bang on the flat sides of the housing just outside the "circlip" end of the shaft? It looks completely round in the picture but I'm 95% sure that it has two somewhat flat recesses on it. Will this skew it? Or am I to the point of disassembling the hub and removing the axle from that end? If so, I'm not sure about how hard to hit it because as you probably know there is some give in these types of shafts and I don't want to damage anything.

***UPDATE***
I was mistaken about the housing unit; it is perfectly round and has no ridge to use as a driving point.
 
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GratisShark

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Sorry JD, part of the above response was to your post. As I said, I heard nothing in the way of a click when I put it in but I did "pop" it into place and subsequently tried to pull it out. Even though I'm seriously questioning myself at this point, I did a lot of research before ordering that particular part so it should be correct. It looked identical to the one I removed with the exception of a rubber collar that was about half-way in between the ends of the old unit. This looked like something placed there to balance the shaft (to my untrained eye), that may not be necessary if proper balancing is achieved in the first place but I don't know. Below are a few pictures:

CV Axle to Transaxle

Bottom of Transaxle/Gearbox

Old CV Axle

Rubber Collar
 
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GratisShark

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Sorry I just realized I blew up the page with the size of the images...please let me know if this causes an issue and I will remove them. I also have some close-up shots of both ends of the old part that show the splines and "circlip" if you want me to add them. Thank you!
 

NickD

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Hate those cir clips on the differential side of the half axle, but can't determine if the old one came out from looking at your old axle. If the old one is still stuck in the differential, you will never snap in the new one.

Never worked on a Hun-day before, but sure that transaxle has a seal like any other, like to replace that as well or will get drips down the road. Speaking of drips, have to learn to like those drips dripping in your face.

If that cir clip is stuck on the inside need a right angle pick tool to work it out, not fun.
 

JackC

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I like the NickD idea, but here is another thought, since we are exploring everything.

I wonder if we are overthinking this. Have you set the car back on the ground and tried it? If not, I suggest giving it a try. Perhaps some new or old part is just a little bit tight and is stopping that wheel from turning freely and will free up when in use.

I believe that could explain all the above symptoms.
 
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